Unveiling the Allure of Spinels through history
In the glittering world of gemstones, one often encounters the classic allure of diamonds, the fiery brilliance of rubies, and the deep, mysterious depths of sapphires. Yet, standing in their own resplendent category, Spinels quietly captivate connoisseurs and collectors with their unique charm. Join us on a journey to unravel the enchanting tale of Spinels and discover why these gems are more than just a sparkling adornment—they are pieces of history, carrying tales of royalty, timeless elegance, and the intricate artistry of the Mughal Empire, with a touch of allure from the Côte de Bretagne.
- A Royal Intrigue: The Spinel in the Crown Jewels
One of the most captivating aspects of Spinels lies in their historical association with royalty. Take, for instance, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Crown Jewels. Contrary to its name, this magnificent gem is not a ruby at all but a red Spinel. Adorning the Imperial State Crown, it was owned by Edward, the Black Prince, in the 14th century. Its rich crimson hue and illustrious history make it a symbol of regal opulence.
Figure 1 Black Prince’s Ruby – the “Great Impostor”
- The Mughal Legacy: Carved Spinels as Imperial Treasures
Delving into the Mughal Empire, we uncover a fascinating chapter in the history of Spinels. The Mughal rulers, known for their appreciation of the arts, were particularly drawn to the mesmerizing allure of Spinels. These rulers not only adorned themselves with these precious gems but took it a step further by commissioning masterful carvings on the surfaces of Spinels.
Figure 2 A 128.10 carat inscribed Mughal Spinel Bead. Engraved 'Jahangir Shah Akbar Shah', dated 'AH 1018/1609-10 AD', and 'Shah Jahan, Jahangir Shah', dated 'AH 1049/1639-40 AD', to the fabric torsade necklace. Jahangir was a great connoisseur of gems. He was described by a contemporary English visitor, the Rev. Edward Terry, as ‘the greatest and richest master of precious stones that inhabits the whole Earth’. His passion for gems was continued by his son, Shah Jahan. The origin of the spinel is Tajikistan, with no indications of heating. Together with the historical context of such spinels, this jewel can be considered a true treasure of nature. Image: Christie's (2016)
Figure 3 Inscribed royal spinel (balas ruby) weighing 249.3 carats. This majestic stone is inscribed with the names of its six imperial owners and has the distinction of having the second-most number of such inscriptions. It was a gift from the Safavid Shah Abbas the Great of Iran to the Mughal emperor Jahangir in 1621. Image courtesy of © The Al-Sabah Collection.
- Gemstone as Canvas: Mughal Spinels as Miniature Artworks
Mughal lapidaries showcased their exceptional skill by transforming Spinels into miniature masterpieces. The gems became canvases for intricate carvings, depicting scenes of courtly life, floral motifs, and mythological tales. These carved Spinels were not only expressions of artistic prowess but also served as symbols of power, wealth, and cultural refinement within the Mughal courts.
Figure 4 An Imperial Mughal spinel necklace with eleven polished baroque spinels for a total weight of 1,131.59 carats. Three of the spinels are engraved. Two with the name of Emperor Jahangir (1569-1627), one with the three names of Emperor Jahangir, Emperor Shah Jahan and Emperor Alamgir, also known as Aurangzeb.
Figure 5 Ring with Shah Jahan’s Spinel
Figure 6 Inscription on an Imperial Mughal spinel necklace. These spinels mainly originated from the Badakhshan mine, in the 'Pamir' region (on the frontier between Afghanistan and Tajikistan). This province gave its derived name to spinels, described as 'Balas r’
- Côte de Bretagne Spinel
The Côte de Bretagne", Red Spinel cut in the shape of a dragon by Jacques Guay in 1750, from the collection of Marguerite de Foix, Duchess of Brittany, and later her daughter Anne de Bretagne, Queen of France (1492 - 1514). Cut in the shape of a dragon by Jacques Guay in 1750 and set in Golden Fleece decoration of diamonds and colored stones for Louis XV.
Figure 7 The spinel Cote de Bretagne (carved as a dragon), the most ancient stone in the French Crown Jewels.
- Timeless Elegance: Spinels in Mughal Jewelry Design
The carved Spinels of the Mughal Empire, find their way into modern jewelry designs. The legacy of these historical gems continues to influence contemporary creations, where the blend of Mughal artistry and coastal splendor creates pieces that transcend time. As you explore the world of Spinels, consider the diverse influences that have shaped these gems into treasures of global significance.
In conclusion, the love for Spinels is a journey through time and varied landscapes—from the Mughal courts to the French one. The allure of Spinels, whether carved in the intricate style of Mughal lapidaries or more occidental ones, stands as a testament to the enduring charm and cultural richness these gems bring to the world of jewelry.
Figure 8 Detail. Brooch, carved emerald from Mughal India is set in a jeweled platinum mount produced in the early twentieth century by Cartier in New York. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Figure 9 Portrait of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan on the bejewelled Peacock Throne. 19th century. Image credit: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Image of Koh-i-Noor added by Reena Ahluwalia for this educational blog). In 1628, Mughal ruler Shah Jahan commissioned this magnificent, gemstone-encrusted throne. Among the many precious stones that adorned the throne were two particularly enormous gems that would, in time, become the most valued of all: the Timur Ruby—more highly valued by the Mughals because they preferred colored stones—and the Koh-i-Noor diamond. According to eyewitness account of Persian historian, Muhammad Kazim Marvi, of the 1739 invasion of Northern India by Nader Shah, Marvi notes: “On top of this was placed a peacock made of emeralds and rubies; on to its head was attached a diamond the size of a hen’s egg, known as the Koh-i-Noor – the Mountain of Light.”